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What do you do when the magic fades? When taking a deep breath of fresh air while riding to work leaves you choking and gagging on diesel fumes and garbage stink? When a tuk-tuk driver stubbornly won't stop insisting that you pay him an exorbitant amount of money for a ride even though you're speaking with him in Khmer? When, after being sick for two months, you give up Cambodian iced coffee, street food, and Cambodian food in general in order to just not be sick? When, one week after taking that step you come down with shingles? When the nice tropical temperatures become oppressive tropical heat? When you realize, that after 60 hours of language lessons, you still can't have an actual conversation in Khmer? What do you do when the honeymoon phase is officially over?